Dictionary

Pleat sewn into the shape of a wedge on garments. Used to shape the body.

Technical term for making decorative seams. This involves applying one or more seams along fixed edges, e.g. on hems, flaps, etc.

With a cut waistband, the waistband strip is not sewn on, but integrated into the front and back of the trousers during construction.

Decorative styling element on items of clothing, created by gluing or sewing on small pieces of colored leather or fabric. Not to be confused with the label!

Refers to the discoloration of coloured textiles after wet treatment. This can be caused, for example, by over-dyeing of the fabric or unsuitable washing treatment.

If the foot width of a pair of trousers is wider than the knee width, this is referred to as a flared foot width. If the difference is extreme, this is also referred to as a 'flare'. The extent of the foot width is subject to fashion trends.

Collective term for subsequent finishing measures carried out on fabrics, such as stain protection, easy-care and wash-resistant finishes, as well as dyeing and bleaching. These finishing measures increase the utility value of the fabric, change the appearance and/or the surface structure of the fabric and thus ultimately increase the value of the garment made from it.

Collective term for all trouser accessories, e.g. buttons, zippers, linings and interlinings, regardless of whether they meet functional or visual requirements. For this reason, all types of decorative stitching on the inside as well as the number, placement and size of pockets are included in the features.
Nowadays, the value of a pair of trousers is no longer measured solely by the quality of the outer fabric and its workmanship. The materials used and the high-quality workmanship of the 'inner workings' are also of great importance in promoting sales.

Men's pants with a comfortable waistband.

The comfort is either achieved by using elastic materials (elastic inserts, stretchy belts) or the waistband is made adjustable by means of wedge-shaped incisions at the sides in order to adapt to changes in the body's width.

New fashion created by particularly courageous designers for a particularly open-minded clientele.

Clothing types and shapes that are intended for everyday use and can be combined in a variety of ways.

Size group in the HAKA size chart. Includes the clothing sizes 47, 49, 51, 53, 55, 57 and 59. Compared to the other clothing sizes, belly and half-belly sizes have different proportions in the belly and buttocks area. They are wider there.

Vegetable textile raw material. Consists of 90% cellulose and is formed from the seed fibers of the subtropical cotton plant. The advantageous properties of cotton are its durability and high tear resistance. It is kind to the skin, does not felt, absorbs moisture and is resistant to heat. It is also easy to clean. However, cotton has the disadvantage that it shrinks easily (countermeasure: sanforizing) and tends to crease (can be reduced with the easy-care finish).

Trousers that end just above the knee. Usually with tighter cut legs. Named after the Bermuda Islands.

Expresses the durability of a fabric under arching pressure until it tears. Accordingly, the strength value is a measure of the interaction of warp and weft within the fabric construction.

General term for fabrics that are patterned in two colors. The effect is achieved, for example, by using different colored yarns in the warp and weft or tiny woven patterns.

Fabrics that can be stretched by at least 25% in both length and width. The proportion of elastane in the fabric is usually between 2-4%

Describes the way in which threads are woven into the fabric. Gives the fabric the cohesion required for use, but also determines the surface structure of the fabric. Example: twill weave

Designation for the classic tartan check in the color combination navy/dark green and black.

Classic fabric for jeans: sturdy cotton fabric in warp twill weave with lots of warp effect. Typical: blue warp, white weft.

Gusseted pleat (dart) sewn below the waistband. The waistband dart gives the hip and seat area of the finished trousers additional width.

The pleats are sewn into the front of the trousers at a predetermined depth below the waistband. Waist pleats provide additional width for the thighs.

Decorative element on the waistband. The waistband is visibly extended with outer fabric so that it extends beyond the fly. The waistband extension is fitted with buttonholes or hooks and can be round, square or pointed.

Trouser measurement: Actual width of men's trousers in the waistband area, measured on the finished part.

Sporty, individual fashion that symbolizes the expression and basic attitude of a lifestyle. The garments are very comfortable and have a rather rustic look. According to the conservative view, they should therefore be worn in leisure time. According to a more modern conception and with a correspondingly well-kept selection of styles and fabrics, casualwear is quite suitable for professional life.

Fabric consisting of different colored yarns in warp and weft and therefore shimmering in two or more colors depending on the incidence of light or viewing angle.

Generic term for all fibers produced using chemical-technical processes. Contrast: Natural fibers

Textiles that cannot be washed are dry-cleaned to remove grease-bound dirt and solid dirt particles. The textiles float in volatile solvents. Cleaning takes place in closed systems and is completely automated.

Sporty, casual-style pants made from strong and durable cotton fabrics. Predominantly in light colors.

English term for fabric or cloth

Particularly colorfast denim in fashion colors, in bright colors and in white. There is no risk of bleeding.

IWS quality mark for summer outerwear fabrics made from pure but lightweight new wool. It is characterized by a cool look and feel as well as temperature-regulating and air-permeable properties. Cool Wool processors must be wool seal licensees.

Collective term for fabrics with raised longitudinal ribs. It is created by cutting the ribs into velvet. Corduroy is very durable, slightly elastic and relatively resistant to soiling. Depending on the type of ribs, a distinction is made between wide cord, fine cord, etc.

French term for cord. General term for longitudinal rib fabric.

Men's pants with a comfortable waistband. Comfort is achieved by using elastic materials (elastic inserts, stretchy belts). At Club-of-Comfort we speak of a comfort waistband.

Process used in the textile finishing of fabrics to prevent shrinkage.

Very hard-wearing cotton fabric. See blue denim.

Sporty fabric, named after its home in northwest Ireland. Predominantly cloth weave, with a light warp and dark end. The weave has a tweed-like character, is intentionally restless and heavily interspersed with (colored) slubs.

Two pipings worked in parallel next to each other. Double piping is primarily used as pocket piping.

Collective term for care finishes based on synthetic resins. Includes the 'non-iron' finish (property of outerwear that can be worn again after washing without ironing), which in combination with Teflon or Scotchgard can also have stain and dirt-repellent properties.

Tape used to secure the edges of the sewing material against fraying.

Shrinkage of textiles. When exposed to moisture or wetness, the length and width dimensions of the fabric shorten and become slightly thicker. As a rule, this process cannot be reversed. Drying or shrink-proof finishes can, however, prevent shrinkage.

Production of an individual item of clothing according to the measurements of a special customer or for scheduling reasons. Contrast: ready-made or mass production.

A special type of chemical fiber that is inherently stretchable like rubber. Fabrics with elastane are referred to as stretch (fabrics).

Characteristic of denim fabrics that are given a worn appearance (used look) by certain washing, dyeing or printing processes. Fade-out fabrics must not be dry-cleaned or treated with stain removers. We recommend turning the garments inside out before washing and washing at 30 to 40°C with mild detergents. Only spin carefully.

A fabric usually made of wool that is created by the influence of friction, pressure, moisture and heat, which is produced by interlocking the scaly structure of animal fibers. Felt is deliberately produced for certain applications (e.g. nonwovens). Soap and other alkaline solutions promote felting.

Final step in textile finishing to change the look, surface and feel of fabrics. The finish of denim fabrics can, for example, change the surface structure by sanding, sanding or roughening, giving them a worn appearance.

Collective term for fabric made of cotton, viscose staple fibers or wool that is napped or milled (see fulling) on one or both sides. Worsted flannel is commonly used for pants, a type of flannel made of fine wool with a not too long pile (protruding fibers) in the upper price category.

Term for the three-dimensional stability of a garment in its entirety. The shape given to a pair of trousers during manufacture, for example, is permanently retained.

Trouser measurement: Total circumference of the trouser leg, measured directly at the hem (leg end).

Worsted weave with a dense, distinctly steep twill weave. The diagonal weave is characteristic.

Collective term for all forms of washing textile products that are washed as finished garments by the manufacturer, with or without influencing the fabric color. The general intention is to give the garment a so-called 'used look' (see fade-out look) or a typical color character (e.g. stone washed). Contrast: Mill-washed

Trouser measurement: Effective measurement in the seat area of the finished men's trousers.

Fabric in which light and dark threads alternate in warp and weft. This results in stripes and small checks, which in turn are grouped into wide stripes and larger checks (oversized checks). Black and white is the classic pattern.

Tabular summary of the clothing size designations according to which garments of all kinds are manufactured and labeled today. For men's trousers, a distinction is made between normal sizes, slim sizes, reduced sizes, short (or half) reduced sizes, belly sizes and short (or half) belly sizes.

Model that can be used as a starting point for the further development or modification of other models due to its proven processing maturity and design. If the model design allows it, the 'teething troubles' of a new design can be avoided.

Fitting templates that have proven themselves in series production. Basic patterns do not necessarily reflect the current fashion trend, but can be adapted by modification or further development. Basic patterns are, so to speak, the 'trade secret' of a garment manufacturer.

Word and/or figurative sign symbolizing the value of certain products. The quality characteristics must be objectively measurable. The quality marks are awarded by associations or separate communities. Procedure: A large number of manufacturers agree among themselves to comply with certain regulations in the production of the products concerned when using the quality mark and to have themselves checked in this respect by a neutral body. The 'wool seal', for example, is a quality mark.

Two- or multi-colored small pattern in cloth weave. The checks are connected to each other by small extensions at the corners on each side, which resembles the imprint of a buttercup.

Standard industry abbreviation for the men's and boys' outerwear industry.

English measure of length. 1 inch = 1 inch = 25.4 mm. Common size measurement for jeans.

Oldest organic blue natural dye. Due to the cumbersome dyeing technique, the sensitivity to light and the risk of natural indigo bleeding, so-called 'indigoid dyes', i.e. synthetic dyes derived directly from indigo, are used today for dyeing jeanswear.

Features that refer to the 'inner life' of a garment.

Abbreviation for 'International Organization for Standardization', an organization with the aim of unifying standards and test methods worldwide. The German member is DIN (German Institute for Standardization).

Abbreviation for 'International Wool Secretariat'. The IWS represents the interests of wool producers to protect the quality and promote products made from virgin wool.

Pants that were originally used as workwear. They are made of strong cotton fabric (blue denim) and are characterized by accentuated topstitching and rivet decoration. Nowadays, there is a wide variety of styles. There are variations in the leg cut (e.g. carrot shape, tube shape), pocket shape (e.g. five-pocket, swing pocket) and wash-out shapes (e.g. stone-washed).

Safety seam for high tensile stress. Two pieces of fabric are placed on top of each other so that one of the panels overlaps. The overlapping part is placed over the other piece of fabric, which is then quilted over the folded over part. The quilting is usually done with contrasting colored thread.

Wool yarn with a smooth, even surface that is used to produce high-quality fabrics.

High-quality wool obtained by combing or plucking out the downy hair of the cashmere goat every year, which is very smooth and shiny. The price of this wool is very high. It is therefore usually blended with other types of wool and used to make high-quality clothing fabrics.

The entirety of the threads running parallel to each other lengthwise in fabrics is called the 'warp'. The transverse threads, i.e. the thread system that holds the fabric together in its width, are called the 'weft'.

In professional circles, the term for the fabric composition 45% virgin wool and 55% polyester.

Part of the easy-care finish. Fabrics are highly refined to improve crease resistance and crease recovery.

Susceptibility of a fabric to the formation of unwanted folds after deformation.

Common weave type for trouser fabrics.

Diagonal weave caused by the offset of the weave points of twill weaves. The diagonal effect can be more or less pronounced depending on the type of yarn, weave or setting. The twill ridge running from bottom left to top right is called Z-ridge, the twill ridge running from bottom right to top left is called S-ridge.

A term used in the clothing industry to describe all forms (models) of a specific fashion, seasonal, sales and consumption-related occasion. E.g. spring/summer collection, fall/winter collection.

Compilation of a collection according to the following aspects: Number of items, fashionability, processing characteristics, features, pricing and individual customer and consumer wishes.

The collection is presented to the trade, and shapes and prices are explained.

Term for both the industrial, i.e. mass production of garments and the products manufactured in this way. Contrast: made-to-measure

Sizes that are manufactured and offered as standard according to standard size charts.

Size group in the HAKA size chart, which includes sizes 49.5, 51.5, 53.5, 55.5 and 57.5.

Size group in the HAKA size chart, which includes sizes 22.5, 23.5, 24.5, 25.5, 26.5, 27.5, 28.5 and 29.5. The leg length is shortened in comparison to the lower sizes.

Anticipating the shrinkage of fabrics. Fabrics can thus be made suitable for tumble drying. Technical term for the finishing process: Shrink-proofing or sanforizing.

English term for 'label'. Commonly used for the externally visible company emblems sewn onto items of clothing. Labels make the special image of branded goods visually recognizable and are a status symbol, especially for youthful clothing.

Trouser measurement: Difference between side length and inseam.

Vegetable textile raw material obtained from the fibers of the flax plant. Linen has a cool feel, good thermal conductivity (therefore has a cooling effect) and releases moisture quickly. However, linen is also relatively stiff, not very supple, not stretchy and therefore prone to creasing.

Elastic yarn made from pure man-made fibers that gives fabrics elasticity. Lycra® is used in stretch fabrics for outerwear that combine fashion with comfort.

Production of a garment according to specified or determined customized measurements that deviate in whole or in part from the measurements in the size charts.

Finishing process for sporty-casual fabrics. The outer fabric is pre-washed several times by the manufacturer (weaver) with the aim of preventing further shrinkage and giving the fabric a soft feel, a slight crease effect and a worn appearance.

Abbreviation for sample piece. Refers to a garment produced as a sample, which serves as a material, cut or processing test, for trade fair or exhibition purposes or for collection templates.

Standard industry term for the design of a new collection. Includes both the preparatory fabric selection and shape planning as well as considerations with regard to equipment and processing.

Customer orders placed after the start of series production for a season (i.e. trade customers in the industry)

Very fine stripes formed only from two warp threads, which are evenly spaced and stand out clearly from a plain background.

Generic term for naturally occurring fibers such as cotton, wool and linen.

Also: no-iron-finish. Non-proprietary term for a crease-resistant finish for cotton fabrics. Does not refer to the finished garment, but only to the fabric.

Size group in the HAKA size chart. Refers to sizes 44, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54, 56 and 58. The values correspond to half the chest circumference, measured in cm

Fabric that determines the outer appearance of a garment. Main component of a pair of trousers.

English measure of length. 1 inch = 1 inch = 25.4 mm. Common size measurement for jeans.

A correctly cut strip of outer fabric, lining fabric or other materials used to finish and define edges, hems, slits or pocket openings. The piping appears as a slightly bulging seam.

Pockets whose openings are bordered by one or two pipings.

Quality feature of garments that assesses the conformity of cut, lines and function with the anatomical requirements of the wearer. Also referred to as 'fit' in technical jargon. Fit overview

A piece of fabric used as a flap on pockets, reinforced with lining in various shapes and sizes, with or without a buttonhole.

Fabric with a small check pattern in twill weave (somewhat frayed-looking block check), typically in black and white. See also: houndstooth.

Collective term for all finishing measures that give textiles made from natural fibers the properties of synthetic fibers such as 'crease-resistant', 'easy to iron' or 'easy to remove soiling'. Care is taken not to impair the durability of the textiles.

Also known as 'care symbols'. Internationally agreed, not legally prescribed, but in the customer's interest and to avoid complaints, required labeling for the care marking of textiles concerning washing, ironing, chlorination, dry-cleaning and drying. Care labels have the character of a recommendation and are therefore neither a guarantee nor an indication of quality. Language-independent symbols make them easier to understand.

Pilling caused by chafing in woven and knitted fabrics.

A group of fully synthetic fibers that have high strength compared to natural fibers, absorb little moisture, are rot-proof and resistant to soot, smoke, solvents, acids, oils and fats. Polyacrylic does not felt and is not attacked by moths

Fully synthetic fiber material that is usually mixed with natural fibers for textile products. The properties of polyester are its strength and dimensional stability. Cf. classic blend.

Recycled wool that has already been used in textile products. Cf. virgin wool

Denim with a characteristic uneven, uneven surface, which is the result of the ring spinning process. Modern spinning processes result in a more even, smoother surface.

Fabric produced using the ring spinning process with thread thickenings.

Period of time for which garments are produced that are adapted to the seasons in terms of fashion and features. This is referred to, for example, as the spring/summer season or the fall/winter season. The grouping of these items into collections is accordingly referred to as a spring/summer collection or fall/winter collection. In menswear, 2 seasons are common, in womenswear 4 seasons.

Soft fabric with a plush-like surface.

Machine finishing process that artificially anticipates the shrinkage of textiles in order to prevent it when the finished garment is washed later.

Bottom finish on all garments and their components, e.g. trouser legs.

Size group in the HAKA size chart. Includes the clothing sizes 94, 98, 102, 106 and 110. The values can be determined by adding the number 2 to the chest circumference measured in cm (this refers to a random sample, so no guarantee for all men).

High-quality natural fiber obtained by shearing live sheep. Cg.: Ripped wool

Trouser measurement: Straight-line distance between the crotch and the sole of the foot, measured between the legs at the inseam.

Stain and dirt-repellent finish for fabrics. An invisible protective shield is placed around the textile fiber, which allows oily or watery liquids to simply roll off. The liquids can simply be dabbed off with an absorbent cloth or fleece. Textiles protected with Scotchgard remain breathable, are wash-resistant and dry-cleanable.

Trouser measurement: straight-line distance measured at the outer seam between the waistband (waist) and the sole of the foot.

Outerwear pocket that is incorporated horizontally or almost horizontally into the front pocket of men's pants, for example.

Finishing process for jeanswear to give it a worn look. The finished garments are washed together with pumice stones. Depending on the duration of the washing process and the size of the stones, different degrees of wear can be achieved, including the destruction of seams and edges.

Also known as trouser protector tape. Special tape with reinforced edges on one side, which is sewn onto the inside of the trouser hem in such a way that it protrudes one to two millimetres and thus absorbs the chafing that occurs when the trousers are worn.

Fabric made from short-fiber, non-combed raw material that is particularly suitable for sporty outer fabrics.

Fabrics that are made stretchy using elastic fibers (such as Lycra® ). Stretch fabrics are crease-resistant. Elasticity options: transverse elastic, longitudinal elastic and bi-elastic.

Virgin wool made from extremely fine yarns. It is characterized by its natural finish and smooth, flowing drape. Approx. 100 meters of yarn weigh 1 gram.

Pure new wool that has been refined using a special finishing process and is therefore washable at 30°C.

Collective term for all sizes in the size chart that are based on extreme measurements.

Abbreviation for trouser turn-up. Bottom hem finish variant for pants. The width of the turn-up depends on the current fashion.

Size group in the HAKA size chart. Includes ready-to-wear sizes 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28 and 29. Compressed in length compared to normal sizes. (Values correspond to a quarter of the bust circumference measured in cm)

All measures that are carried out outside the pure manufacturing process before or after production to give fabrics improved properties and a variety of practical benefits. Finishing also enables a more attractive appearance, a softer or fuller feel and fashionable design options.

Nowadays, instead of pleats, small darts are often sewn in below the waistband in the front trouser area with a length of 8-12 cm. Front trouser darts give the hip and seat area of the finished garment additional width.

Lining of the front trousers. Used to stabilize the front trousers and prevent bulging.

Term used in textile technology. Can be equated with 'felting'.

Winter cotton fabrics, often with a roughened or sanded surface.

Quality mark protected and subject to licensing in over 120 countries worldwide, which may only be used for products made from and with new wool.
Carefully monitored quality regulations guarantee compliance with certain defined production and performance standards.

Natural fiber that can only be obtained from sheep's wool. Wool has a number of favorable properties: it is elastic, retains its shape, does not crease, has a high heat retention capacity and absorbs a lot of moisture despite its dry feel. It is also kind to the skin and dirt-repellent. However, wool can become matted, which the so-called anti-felt finish can protect against. (see also torn wool and new wool)